Hydrogen boost
editor's note; These plans were sent to us several months ago by an unknown source. This site makes no claims whatsoever about the suitability or effectiveness of this system. I took a lot of flack from news groups when I made it available here some months back but it seems that many visitors would like to experiment themselves. So here it is again. Always exercise extreme caution when working with hydrogen. Never try to compress a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. It is very explosive and can kill. When building any electroliser, collect the gases seperately and only recombine them at the point of entry into the motor. We accept absolutely no liability for any injuries, both monetary and/or physical injury that may be a result of constructing this system. You are on your own but please exercise caution. Remember you can't get more energy out, than you put in! There is no free energy and the electricity has to come from somewhere.
As an electroliser circuit, these schematics are interesting but it is highly unlikely that you will generate enough gas to run a vehicle. Some people working with these types of systems have experienced an increase in mileage when running on a combination of gasoline and added electroliser H+O. Original plan text below.
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The need to rustproof your exhaust system
It is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is being tested now in mexico), which would eliminate the need to open the head and remove the exhaust system. Just a thought, it takes only a small amount of gas to keep the system dry.
It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own, one that you don't need to live with everyday, until you perfect this technology.
In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your entire existing system except for the fuel tank and the catalytic converter.
the plan
The "minisystem" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system,
and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings.
You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction
chamber, a hi-pressure carb/fi fitting, and 3 gauges, and then hooking into
your existing carb/fi.
frequently asked questions
q: is it safe?
a: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are no
longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise). In general, it is
practically as safe as your current gasoline arrangement. you will be
installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive standards.
q: can i do the modification myself?
a: why not? if you don't have any mechanical skills, and you know someone
with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some
of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may
have to get a mechanic's opinion. [there will have to be an adapter inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if you were going to
run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. ed.)
Most people are unaware that "internal combustion" is defined as "a thermo-vapor
process" - as in "no liquid in the reaction." most of the gasoline in a standard
internal combustion engine is actually consumed, (cooked, and finally, broken
down) in the catalytic converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the
engine. sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way is used
only to cool down the combustion process, a pollution-ridden and inefficient
means of doing that.
how it works
Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the
liquid level in the chamber. the electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5a electrical
pulse which breaks 2(h2o) => 2h2 + o2. when the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi,
you turn the key and go. you step on the pedal, you send more energy to the
electrodes, and thus more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.
You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you're
off to the races.
Step by step construction (please refer to diagrams)
here is the suggested sequence of steps:
Install the cht (or egt) gauge and measure your current operating temp range
(gasoline), for comparison.
Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).
Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter
(or let it rust out and then replace the whole thing with stainless steel pipe sections).
you will need
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.
carb/fi vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, cht (or egt), & level gauges.
stainless steel valves.
copper mesh junction.
ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
basic tools
drill, screwdriver and pliers
hole cutter
wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
dvm and oscilloscope.
reaction chamber
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" pvc waste pipe with a
threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. make
sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads thru the pvc components for all fittings.
Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the
pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen
vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise
use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. ensure that the epoxy
perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone
that can hold pressure.
the screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose
is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. no leaks,
no problems. make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless
steel pipes. the referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you
get, the better. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified
before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth,
and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for
joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be
capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
control circuit
The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system.
you are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes
like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise
given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the
'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. duty cycle
will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%mark 10%space (off/on).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there
are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few.
the diagram shows the ne555-circuit approach from the referenced patent.
The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12vdc (in saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid
or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics
store, such as radio-shack or circuits-r-us, including the circuit board,
ic sockets, and enclosure/box.
digikey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no
minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground
plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. mounting
the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require running a stub
to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins
and thru-hole discrete components having wire leads. also make sure to
get spec sheets on any ic you use. More details of the best circuits
to use will be announced pending prototype testing. you will want to
get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
throttle control
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the
signal from the sensor itself or from the computer connector. this signal
is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level =
pulse width = vapor rate).
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a
rotary pot (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to
something at the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or
fi. if you make the attachment at the carb/fi, be sure to use a pot
that can handle the engine temp cycles. don't use a cheezy-cheapy
pot; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it
securely to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall
apart when you step on the gas.
Control range. The full throttle range (idle-max) must control the
vapor rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). the resistor values at the throttle
signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 volt swing, to
drive the vapor rate. You will be using this voltage swing to generate
a 10% on 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse
in the 10-250 khz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the
most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs
for each ic you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the
right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. you can use
spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. just
keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get
the job done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy
(fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty
on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal time-base). your
averaging dvm will display the 90%-10% dc voltage across the
output transistor (vce or vds or output to ground). set and
connect dvm in the supply current and measure .5 - 5 amps,
without blowing the dvm fuse. now verify that you got everything
you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your dvm as a continuity
detector. check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final
schematic as you go. you can best use board-mount miniature pots
for anything you want to set-and-forget. The leds are there to give
you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your
new creation. you will want to get your chamber level sensor
verified before you epoxy the cap on.
carb/fi connection
The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/fi l.
there are ready-made kits (such as by impco) available for making
your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the
case may be. you will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents
and making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for
the reaction chamber. make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are
air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. your new 'system'
is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full
power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing
the pressure safety valve.
cht (or egt)
Monitor your engine temp with the cht (cylinder head temp) or egt
(exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator
(if any). your existing gauge is too slow for this application
and will not warn you against overheating until after you have
burnt something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than
in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes a cht gauge with a platinum
sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head
(make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark
plug (as this is also an electrical ground).
engine/exhaust treatment
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders
ceramic-treated asap when you have successfully converted and run your
new creation. Do not delay as these items will rust, either by sheer
use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of
your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until
it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit
a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required).
but it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust
system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach
it to the exhaust ports.
general
Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components,
e.g. tank, carb/fi, catalytic converter, unless necessary. better to
always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least
runs, just in case. some people are leaving their gasoline setup
completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to
have a backup plan.
Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at
idle, and maximum vapor flow at full power without blowing the pressure
relief valve. in this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by
the strength of the pulse (i.e. "fatness" at the optimum pulse frequency).
If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it
means that you need to (1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change
the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes,
or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). always use an
output transistor, such as a mosfet, that is rated for the voltage and
current you need to get the job done. ok so you might have to play
around with it some. Isn't that where all the fun is anyhow?
If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated
by adjusting the timing), It means that you need to install an additional
coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal
(about 19 hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram). Here, you will be
slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru
out the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount
pot to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the
coil. this is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire)
that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but not
touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap.
you want no knocking at any power/throttle setting; smooth power
only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.
Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your
ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the
engine compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always
make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship.
remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted
in a bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal,
make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing.
Always watch your chamber pressure range from idle (15-25 psi) -
full power (30-60 psi). set your safety-pressure relief-valve to
75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.
Shut off the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction
of the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops
full power+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can
find, by leaning back the royal vapor flow and/or by making use of
the water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). keep good mpg
performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection.
There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel
injector; There may be some details you will discover on your own as working
prototypes progress. for example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen
vapor without any water vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and cht
is a problem, then you will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the
injectors. there is always "replacing the fi system with a carb."
If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you
will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve
any given throttle position (idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow
for idle and a modestly sufficient flow for max, that does the cooling job
without killing the combustion.
If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm
gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a)
add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly;
or (b) install some electric heating coils.
references
stephen chambers 'apparatus for producing orthohydrogen and/or
parahydrogen' us patent 6126794, uspto.gov
stanley meyer 'method for the production of a fuel gas' us patent 4936961,
uspto.gov
creative science & research, 'fuel from water', fuelless.com
carl cella "a water-fuelled car" nexus magazine oct-nov 1996
peter lindemann "where in the world is all the free energy", free-energy.cc
george wiseman "the gas-saver and hyco series" eagle-research.com
c. michael holler "the dromedary newsletter" and "supercarb techniques"
stephen chambers "prototype vapor fuel system" xogen.com
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